Eungkot Paya — Aceh, Indonesia

Eungkot Paya is a spicy fish dish from Aceh, in northern Sumatra, whose name in Acehnese refers directly to fish caught in swamps and paddies. It belongs to the wider Acehnese family of sour, spice-forward fish preparations that lean on tamarind and a generous use of turmeric and chili. It is reported from rural areas of Aceh, where paddy fields and swampy lowlands provide small freshwater fish that are cooked close to where they are caught, often as part of everyday home cooking rather than restaurant fare. The dish reflects a broader Acehnese reliance on rice-field and swamp fish alongside the better-known seafood of the coast. The fish is cleaned and simmered in a sour, spiced broth built on a ground paste of turmeric, shallots, garlic, ginger and chilies, soured with tamarind or unripe starfruit and fragrant with lemongrass. It is cooked gently so the small fish hold together, and the broth is left fairly thin rather than reduced into a thick sauce. What is said to set this dish apart from other Acehnese fish preparations is the specific use of swamp or paddy fish rather than sea fish, together with the sour, tamarind-forward broth that this style of cooking favors. It is generally eaten with plain steamed rice, the broth spooned generously over the top.