Migas — Spain

Migas is a bread-based preparation built from old, dry bread that is broken into small crumbs and fried until crisp. It began as a way for field hands and shepherds to use up bread that had gone stale rather than throw it away, turning a humble leftover into a filling plate. The dish is reported from a wide swathe of inland Spain, particularly Extremadura, Castile, Aragon and Navarre, and a related bread crumb dish is also eaten across the border in Portugal. Each region keeps its own combination of seasonings and accompaniments, so the crumbs rarely look or taste quite the same from one kitchen to the next. To prepare it, the bread is torn into small pieces and lightly dampened with water so it holds together without turning soggy, then left to rest. Garlic is fried gently in olive oil with a little paprika, and the bread crumbs are added and turned constantly over the heat until every piece is crisp, golden and separate, rather than clumped or greasy. What changes from place to place is mostly what goes into the pan alongside the bread: some cooks add diced chorizo, bacon or peppers, others keep it plain with just garlic and paprika, and in parts of Extremadura the dish is served with fresh grapes for a sweet contrast. The bread itself, and the frying technique that crisps it, stays the constant thread running through the family.