sformato — Italy

Sformato is a baked, unmolded dish built around a vegetable bound with béchamel and eggs, closer in texture to a savory flan or timbale than to a soufflé, since it holds its shape firmly once turned out of the mold rather than collapsing at the first touch of a spoon. It is reported across Italy, appearing on trattoria menus as a starter or side and in home kitchens as a way to use vegetables in season; spinach, artichoke, zucchini and potato are all common bases, and the dish is often served with a light sauce or simply on its own. The chosen vegetable is cooked, drained well and chopped or puréed, then folded into a béchamel of butter, flour and milk seasoned with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Eggs and grated parmesan are beaten in to bind the mixture, which is poured into a buttered, breadcrumbed mold and baked in a bain-marie until set, usually around forty minutes, the gentle, indirect heat keeping the custard smooth rather than curdled. It is left to rest briefly before being carefully unmolded onto a warm plate. The vegetable base is what varies most from one sformato to the next, along with the cheese used and whether a sauce, tomato, cream or a simple pat of butter, accompanies the finished dish at the table; some cooks also fold in cooked ham or mushrooms for a heartier version.