Tagarninas o cardillos — Spain

Tagarninas o cardillos takes its name from tagarninas, the trimmed stalks of a wild golden thistle that grows across the Andalusian countryside, stewed until tender after their spiny edges have been removed. Once trimmed, the pale stalks look a little like thin celery and soften into the stew as they cook. It is reported from southern Spain, in Andalusia, where the plant is foraged in the spring and the stew is prepared at home, particularly in rural areas where gathering wild greens is part of the seasonal calendar and the harvest is shared among neighbors. To prepare it, the thistle stalks are peeled of their spines, cut into pieces and soaked, then simmered together with soaked chickpeas, diced cured ham, garlic and sweet paprika in olive oil until the stalks turn tender and the chickpeas creamy. Beaten egg is sometimes stirred through at the end, thickening the broth further just before serving. Among the wider family of Iberian stews built on foraged wild greens, this one is set apart by its particular plant, whose flavor sits between artichoke and chard, and by the chickpeas that give the dish its thick, legume-based body and make it substantial enough to serve as a full meal.