Tanggo-tanggo — North Sumatra, Indonesia

Tanggo-tanggo is a shredded fish preparation reported from the Batak highlands of North Sumatra. Freshwater fish, most often carp or catfish, is cooked until the flesh separates easily from the bones, then flaked or pounded and tossed through a coarse, uncooked or lightly cooked chili paste, so the dish reads more as a dressed fish relish than a soupy curry. According to regional sources, it is associated with Mandailing and other Batak communities of North Sumatra, where andaliman, a citrusy, faintly numbing local pepper related to Sichuan pepper, is used across many savoury dishes, this one among them. It is generally eaten as a side to steamed rice rather than as the sole dish of a meal, alongside vegetables or a clear broth. The fish is first grilled over charcoal or fried until fully cooked, then the skin is removed and the flesh pulled or pounded into loose flakes. Separately, shallot, garlic, red chili, tomato and andaliman are pounded into a coarse paste, briefly cooked in a little oil until fragrant, and then folded through the flaked fish along with a squeeze of lime. Kaffir lime leaf and sliced scallion are often added at the end for extra fragrance. The balance of chili, sourness and the tingling character of andaliman is usually described as central to the dish, more than any single fish or cooking method, and home cooks are said to adjust the ratio of chili to lime to fit the fish on hand. Because the fish is fully cooked and only briefly warmed with the paste, tanggo-tanggo keeps its shredded texture rather than turning into a sauce, and it is served warm or at room temperature.