chana masala — Maharashtra, India

Chana masala is a chickpea curry found across the Indian subcontinent, known under several regional names — chole masala, channay, chholay. Chickpeas (chana) are simmered until tender, then finished in a spiced tomato and onion base until most of the liquid has cooked away, leaving a dish that is dry rather than saucy. In Maharashtra it turns up as street food and home cooking alike, sold from carts near bus stands and college gates as well as ladled onto plates at family tables. Vendors keep a pot simmering through the day so the chickpeas stay warm and ready to serve with whatever bread or rice is at hand. The chickpeas are soaked overnight, boiled until soft, then added to onions and tomatoes cooked down with ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander and chili. A final pinch of dried mango powder or a squeeze of lemon lifts the dish with a sour edge before it is topped with chopped coriander and served hot. What sets a Maharashtrian plate apart from other regional versions is mainly the balance of heat and sourness and the bread it comes with — often bhakri or pav rather than the naan or puri favored elsewhere on the subcontinent — while the base recipe of chickpeas, onion, tomato and spice stays close to what is cooked throughout the region.