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City chicken — Pennsylvania, United States
Photo: AstroErika — CC BY-SA 3.0

Version from Pennsylvania, United States

City chicken — Pennsylvania, United States

A Pennsylvania dish of cubed pork threaded onto small skewers to resemble chicken drumsticks, breaded and fried or baked, containing no chicken at all.

25 min
Prep
40 min
Cook
4
Servings
Medium
Difficulty
City chicken is a dish of cubed meat, usually pork, sometimes combined with veal, that is threaded onto short wooden skewers to mimic the shape of a chicken drumstick, then breaded and cooked until golden. Despite its name, the dish contains chicken only rarely, if at all. The dish is reported mainly from Pennsylvania, particularly around Pittsburgh, where it took hold in working-class and immigrant communities. It is generally traced to periods when chicken was relatively costly compared with pork or veal, so cooks skewered the cheaper meats into a shape resembling a drumstick and kept the more festive-sounding name. To prepare it, pork shoulder or loin, sometimes mixed with veal, is cut into small cubes of two to three centimeters and threaded three or four at a time onto short skewers. The skewers are seasoned, then dredged through flour, beaten egg, and breadcrumbs before being browned in a pan with a little oil or butter. Once seared on all sides, they are typically finished in the oven or simmered gently in a covered pan with a little stock, which keeps the meat moist while the breading sets into a firm crust. What distinguishes this dish from an ordinary breaded pork chop or cutlet is precisely the skewer and the drumstick shape it produces, along with the pan drippings, which are commonly built into a light gravy served alongside. The name persists as a label for the dish even though most people preparing it know no poultry is involved.

Preparation

  1. Cut the pork and veal into 2–3 cm cubes.

  2. Thread three or four cubes onto each short wooden skewer, alternating pork and veal.

  3. Season the skewers with salt and pepper.

  4. Dredge each skewer in flour, then in beaten egg, then in breadcrumbs, coating evenly.

  5. Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet and brown the skewers on all sides.

  6. Pour in the stock, cover, and simmer gently for 25–30 minutes until the meat is cooked through.

  7. Uncover for the last 5 minutes to let the breading firm up.

  8. Serve the skewers with the pan juices spooned over as a light gravy.

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