Cuccìa PAT — Apulia, Italy

Cuccìa is a Sicilian sweet built from whole wheat berries that are boiled until soft, then mixed with a sweet cream and other additions. The name comes from the Sicilian word cucciu, meaning 'grain,' unrelated to other Italian words that sound similar, and the finished dessert has a soft, slightly chewy bite from the whole grains. It is reported mainly from Sicily and is closely associated with the feast of Saint Lucy on 13 December, when many households and pastry shops prepare it in large batches to share. Savory versions also exist in some places, served with olive oil, salt and pepper instead of sugar, closer to a grain salad than a dessert. To prepare the sweet version, whole wheat berries are soaked overnight, then boiled for a long time until tender and slightly translucent. They are drained and mixed with sweetened ricotta or a milk-based cream, then finished with chocolate chips, candied citrus peel or pumpkin, and sometimes a little cinnamon or a spoonful of honey. Ricotta cream is the most reported base, though a plain milk cream also appears in some households, giving a lighter result. The choice of candied fruit, the amount of chocolate, and whether cinnamon is added at all differ from one kitchen to another, and some cooks prepare the wheat well in advance so only the cream needs assembling on the day.