huitlacoche — Mexico

Huitlacoche, also spelled cuitlacoche, is a dark fungus that grows on the kernels of an ear of corn, swelling them into greyish-black galls that are gathered and cooked rather than discarded. In Mexican kitchens it is treated as a savoury delicacy in its own right, prized for an earthy, faintly smoky flavour often compared to mushrooms or truffle. The dish is reported from Mexico generally, and especially from the central growing regions where corn is a staple crop. The fungus develops on the ears during humid stretches of the growing season, and once discovered it is harvested by hand while the galls are still firm rather than left to dry out on the stalk. To cook it, the swollen kernels are cut from the cob and chopped, then sautéed in oil with onion, garlic and a chopped chile until softened. Fresh corn kernels and a sprig of epazote are often added partway through, and the mixture is cooked down until the huitlacoche turns inky black and gives up its juices, leaving a thick, dark filling. This is spooned into corn tortillas with a little cheese and folded, or served as a side dish on its own. What distinguishes this version from other renderings of huitlacoche is its use as a folded tortilla filling, cooked briefly on a dry griddle until the cheese melts, rather than as a soup, a tamale filling, or a component of a cream sauce, all of which are also cooked with the same fungus elsewhere.