Medfouna, pain farci du Tafilalet — Rissani, Morocco

Medfouna means "buried": in Rissani, at the gateway to the desert, this stuffed bread used to be cooked in a hole dug in the sand, covered with embers. Tourists call it "Berber pizza," which says nothing about its flavor: a thin, pliable bread dough encloses a filling of ground meat or mutton fat, onions, almonds, hard-boiled eggs, parsley, and cumin, sometimes kefta. The Rissani market, one of the oldest in Morocco, sells it late in the morning, piping hot, cut into wedges. At home, a very hot oven stands in for the embers.