Nasi ulam — Jakarta, Indonesia

Nasi ulam is a dish of cooked rice tossed with plenty of fresh herbs, most often kemangi (lemon basil), along with toasted grated coconut and spices, then served alongside an assortment of side dishes. The rice carries a fragrant, herbal note quite different from plain steamed rice, and it is typically eaten warm or at room temperature. The dish is reported chiefly from Jakarta's Betawi cuisine, as well as among Malay communities in Sumatra and in Bali, and related versions of nasi ulam are found across Malaysia and southern Thailand under the same name. Within Jakarta itself, versions differ by district: a soupy style is common in the north and center of the city, while a drier, herb-tossed style is more usual in the south. To prepare the Jakarta style, grated coconut is toasted until golden and crushed finely, then tossed through cooled cooked rice with chopped kemangi, chili and a little salt. The rice is served alongside separately cooked sides such as fried dendeng (dried beef), a thin sliced omelet, fried tofu and tempeh, and crisp krupuk crackers, with roasted peanuts and a little lime juice scattered over the top. What varies most between households and regions is the exact herb mix and the sides on offer: some cooks add cucumber and extra chili for a sharper, more refreshing plate, others lean on dendeng and tempeh for a heartier meal, and the soupy northern style adds a savory broth that the drier southern style does without. The base of herbed rice with toasted coconut nonetheless stays recognizable across these versions.