Brandade de morue — Nîmes, France

Brandade is from Nîmes. Dried cod arrived through the port of Aigues-Mortes, traded for salt from the salt flats, and Nîmes turned it into the dish that made it famous in the 18th century. Its name comes from the Provençal brandar, to stir: the poached, flaked flesh is worked with a spatula in a pan over low heat, pouring in the olive oil and milk alternately, until it becomes a smooth, white paste. The Nîmes version contains no potato; adding one is a local heresy, tolerated elsewhere. It is served hot, plain or baked au gratin, with croutons rubbed with garlic, or cold on toast.