Tielle sétoise — Sète, France

The tielle came from Gaeta, near Naples, with the Italian fishermen who settled in Sète at the start of the 20th century; the Cianni family, according to local history, was the first to sell it at the harbour in the 1930s. Today it is the town's emblem, sold in every bakery on the quay and taken aboard the boats. It is a small round pie with a thin, tomato-tinted bread dough, filled with octopus (or cuttlefish) finely chopped and simmered in a tomato sauce with garlic, onion and chilli, its lid pinched into a rope along the edge. It is eaten cold or warm, by hand.