lokma — Turkey

In Turkey, lokma is made from a soft, slightly sticky dough of flour, yeast and water, shaped into small balls or dropped from a spoon, then deep-fried until the outside is crisp and the crumb inside stays light and open. The fried balls are noticeably smaller and more evenly rounded than some other renderings of the same family, since the dough here is stiffer than a loose batter. This version is reported from Turkey, where it is closely tied to esnaf lokması, meaning it is often given out for free at the opening of a shop, on religious occasions, or to mark a happy or sad event, rather than sold purely as a dessert. Vendors frying it fresh on the street are a common sight in Turkish towns and cities. To prepare it, a dough of flour, yeast, water, a little yogurt and salt is kneaded until smooth, then left to rise until it has visibly loosened and bubbled. Small portions are pinched off by hand or scooped and rolled into balls, dropped into hot oil, and turned until deep gold on all sides. What distinguishes this version is the syrup, made from sugar, water and a good amount of lemon juice cooked to a light thickness, which the hot fried balls are dipped into as soon as they come out of the oil so the syrup is absorbed while the shell is still warm. Some versions finish with a scatter of crushed pistachio, but the syrup itself, sharper and less perfumed than versions built on honey or rosewater, is what most sets this rendering apart.