Canelé — Bordeaux, France

Canelé — Bordeaux, France

Bordeaux, France

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The canelé is from Bordeaux and claims it through its very shape: the fluted copper mould, waxed with beeswax, which gives it its dark, crackling crust. Its history is lost somewhere between the 18th-century convents, where egg yolks left over from fining wine were used — the whites served to clarify it — and its revival in the 1980s, when a guild restored its reputation. The batter is like a thick crêpe batter, with milk, vanilla and rum, left to rest for at least twenty-four hours. Baking is fierce, then long: very hot at first to sear the crust, then gentler to cook the inside, which must stay soft, almost creamy.

Preparation

  1. 01

    Heat the milk with the split vanilla pod and the butter. Mix the sugar, flour and salt, add the eggs and yolks, then the warm milk in a thin stream, then the rum. Rest for 24 hours in the fridge.

  2. 02

    Coat the moulds with a melted mixture of wax and butter, and put them in the freezer for 10 minutes.

  3. 03

    Fill three-quarters full. Bake for 15 minutes at 240°C (465°F) then 45 minutes at 180°C (350°F).

  4. 04

    Turn out while hot. The crust should be brown, almost black, and the inside soft.

Where this version sits

A single, final coordinate: Bordeaux, France. Another version of the same dish, elsewhere, gets its own point.

Photo: Rhododendrites — CC BY-SA 4.0

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